YOUR FIRST FISHING ADVENTURE

Let’s go fishing!

One rod. One bobber. One step at a time.
Start here with a grown-up. Learn the other rigs later.

First, team up with a grown-up

Wear a life jacket that fits near the water.
Wear glasses to help protect your eyes.
Your grown-up handles sharp hooks, pliers, cuts, and strong knot pulls.
Before every cast, look behind and beside you. Keep people clear.

YOUR FIRST RIG · FOR BLUEGILL AND OTHER SMALL PANFISH

Start with a bobber and a worm

A rig is the line, hook, and other parts put together. Follow these five steps with your grown-up.

Watch the steps

Drawing enlarged; parts and distances are not to scale. The fishing line stays connected behind the bobber and weight.

1
Let your grown-up get the rod ready.
Use a rod with line already on its reel. Smooth mono line is simple to start with. Match the line to the rod and reel; 6–8 lb test is a common panfish choice.
2
Let your grown-up tie on the hook.
A small panfish hook, often size #6–#8, works for a little worm. Your grown-up can use the Uni knot lesson. Practice knots with string and a key ring.
3
Add a tiny weight and a bobber.
Your grown-up uses pliers to pinch a small split shot about 6 in (15 cm) above the hook. Clip a bobber about 12–24 in (30–60 cm) above the hook.
Check: the bobber stays up and the hook hangs above the bottom. Change the depth if needed.
4
Add a small piece of worm.
Let your grown-up put it on the hook. Leave the hook tip just showing. The bobber must hold up the bait and weight. See the four worm-baiting steps.
5
Get ready to watch the bobber!
Choose a clear spot with your grown-up. Keep the hook away from people. A short, gentle cast is enough.

You can start fishing with just this rig. You can learn the other knots and lures another day.

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The bobber-and-worm rig

Tie it on

Use the five steps above. Your grown-up ties the hook onto the rod’s mono line.

Use your lock snap

Keep your clip. Attach a ready-made hook leader by its existing loop, or use a top swivel for the no-loop version. Keep the hook tied to its own leader.

Put the bobber above the whole hook leader and the small split shot about 6 in (15 cm) above the hook.

Check: Measure bobber depth from the hook, not from the clip. The bobber must support the bait, shot, and extra hardware. Use a shorter ready-made leader if it will not fit the chosen depth.

BAIT THE HOOK · WITH YOUR GROWN-UP

Put a worm on a bluegill hook

Use a real earthworm or a piece of nightcrawler and the small #6–#8 hook from your first rig. Start with the hook already tied on. Your grown-up handles the sharp hook, with fingers away from its point.

Watch the worm go on

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it with your grown-up. The four pictures below show the same steps.

1Start with a small piece.
Bluegill have small mouths. Your grown-up pinches or cuts off about ½–1 in (1–2.5 cm) of worm. Use less if it crowds the hook.
2Poke through near one end.
Your grown-up pushes the hook point through the worm near one end. The point comes out the other side.
3Slide, fold, and poke again.
Your grown-up slides the pierced part of the worm down to the bend, the hook’s curved part. Fold the hanging worm back toward the point. Push the point through a new spot. Repeat once if needed.
4Check the finished hook.
Keep a small bunch on the bend, with the tip just peeking out and one short end free to wiggle. Keep the gap—the open space between the point and the straight part—clear.

After a nibble or missed bite, reel in and check. Ask your grown-up to replace missing or badly torn bait.

Drawings are enlarged, not a ruler. Orange is the connected fishing line; dark is the hook. Arrows show how the hook or worm moves. Bait the hook the same way when it is on a clip-on leader.

Worm ready? Do your trip checklist →

DO THIS ON EVERY FISHING TRIP

Before your first cast

Check each box with your grown-up, even if your rod was ready at home.

My life jacket fits. My glasses are on.Stay beside your grown-up on a firm, safe spot by the water. My rod and reel stay put.Your grown-up checks that rod sections are snug and the rod rings line up. The reel’s foot sits fully in its holder, with the locking collar hand-tight. The reel should not wobble. My line goes through every rod ring.Include the tiny ring at the tip. No line is wrapped around the rod or tip. My line has no tangles or damage.Your grown-up checks for rough spots, fraying, and unwanted knots, then replaces damaged line. My grown-up checks every fishing knot.Each knot should match its lesson and sit snugly. Your grown-up tests it with the hook secured and its point away from people. Retie a loose or slipping knot. My hook and rig are ready.Your grown-up checks for bent or rusty hooks. The bait, bobber, and weight are secure. If using a lock snap, both hooked catches are fully seated. My reel works and its drag is set.The handle winds line and the bail opens and closes. Your grown-up checks the drag: the setting that lets line slip during a strong pull, before the line breaks. Test using a safe grip on the line, never by pulling a hook. My casting space is clear.Look behind, beside, and above you. Keep clear of people, branches, and overhead wires. Your grown-up checks the weather and today’s fishing rules, too.

Check the space again before every cast. Check your line and knots again after a fish or a snag. Keep pliers and line clippers handy for your grown-up.

ONE GENTLE CAST · SPINNING REEL

Cast, wait, and watch

1
Practice without a hook first.
Ask your grown-up to show you a gentle cast with a practice plug. Check behind and beside you. Say “Casting!”
2
Hold the line. Open the bail.
Use your first finger to hold the line against the rod. Then open the bail, the wire arm on the reel. Keep holding the line. See the reel-parts picture.
3
Swing gently. Let the line go.
With your grown-up beside you, bring the rod back gently, then swing it forward. Lift your finger as the rod points toward the water. The line runs out.
4
Close the bail. Watch the bobber.
When the bobber lands, close the bail by hand. Reel in a little loose line. If the bobber goes under or moves steadily away, reel gently and lift the rod.

If the hook snags or a fish bites, ask your grown-up for help.

How do we let a fish go?

Keep the fish in the water as much as you can. Wet your hands. Your grown-up supports its body gently and removes the hook with pliers. Avoid the eyes, gills, and sharp fins. If the hook is deep and will not come out easily, do not dig for it. Your grown-up cuts the line close to the mouth, then returns the fish promptly.

Ready to practice a knot? Pick one lesson ↓

ALREADY HAVE A CLIP ON YOUR LINE?

Keep your clip. Change the lure or the whole rig.

The lock snap shown here has a smaller line loop and a larger lure loop, with two hooked wire catches near the middle. Either end of this style can open. Keep the line end closed when you change a lure.

Already have a clip tied on? Keep that knot if it passes your grown-up’s check. Start with opening the clip. The tying steps here are for a new clip or a separate ready-made leader.

Knots inside a rig stay in place. A clip does not grip a loose end of fishing line. It needs a suitable metal eye or a tied line loop.

Lock snap: the wire snap shown here, with two opening positions. It has no rotating swivel.

Barrel swivel: has two eyes and turns; it does not open.

Snap swivel: combines a snap and a swivel. It is a different part from the plain lock snap.

OPEN · ADD · CLOSE · CHECK

Change a rig with your lock snap

Do this with your grown-up. The style of lock snap shown here has two ends that can open. Keep the end with your fishing-line knot closed. Open the other end to change your lure or ready-made rig.

Closed: both wire tips are in their catches.

Open: the lure end opens; the line end stays closed.

Ready: the new rig is inside and both catches are closed.

Keep the line end closed. Point the lure's hooks away from hands. Your grown-up holds the snap.
Squeeze, then open. Gently squeeze the spring wire to free the hooked tip from its catch. Swing that tip out.
Slide the new rig on. Take the old rig off. Slide the new lure's closed eye, a swivel eye, or a finished leader loop over the free wire tip.
Put the tip back in its catch. Squeeze gently again and guide the hooked tip fully back into place. Let the wire spring closed.
Look at both catches. Both hooked tips must be seated. Ask your grown-up to test the connection safely before casting.

Check with your eyes and a safe test. A click alone does not show that the snap is locked. If a tip will not stay seated, ask your grown-up to replace the snap.

Other styles of locking clips can open differently. Follow the directions that came with yours. The plain lock snap shown here has no swivel attached.

Want to skip the loop knot?

Ask your grown-up to tie the top of the ready-made leader to one eye of a small barrel swivel, with knot Double Palomar (C) or Uni knot (G).
Open your rod-side clip. Put the swivel’s other, empty eye inside it.
Close the clip fully and have your grown-up test it safely.

You have replaced the loop knot with a knot to a swivel. You still need that knot. A store-bought snelled hook with a loop can use its existing loop instead.

The no-loop version below uses a plain snap on the rod side and a small barrel swivel at the top of each ready-made leader. If your snap already has a swivel, a tied leader loop is a lighter option; a second swivel is optional extra hardware.

Before casting: keep clips and swivels outside the rod’s guide rings. Your grown-up adjusts the total hanging length so you can cast safely. Use small, smooth, suitably rated parts; big clips can change how a small lure moves.

See the drop-shot comparison ↓

Quick map: every knot and rig

Lesson	Tie it on	Use a clip
Practice loops	Learn the overhand and double overhand with string.	A clip cannot replace the loops that form these knots.
A. Arbor	Tie the line to the reel spool.	This knot stays. No clip on the spool.
B. Double Uni	Join braid and leader directly.	Keep B if the clip is at the leader’s far end. A top swivel is a different join.
C. Double Palomar	Tie to a hook, ring, or suitable lure eye.	Tie the same knot to the clip’s line end.
D. Improved Clinch	Tie mono or fluoro to the spinnerbait’s R-bend.	Tie the spinnerbait to a leader; clip to its top swivel.
G. Uni	Tie line to a hook or metal eye.	Use the same knot on the clip or leader’s swivel.
H. Surgeon’s loop	Make the leader’s top loop.	Use the loop, OR skip H and tie on a top swivel.
E1. Wacky	Tie on the hook and rig the worm.	Keep the hook tied; clip on its whole leader.
E2. Texas	Tie on the worm hook and rig the plastic.	Keep the hook tied; clip on its whole leader.
F. Spinnerbait extras	Add the trailer and optional trailer hook as shown.	Those steps stay. The clip goes above the leader.
I. Bluegill / lure swap	Tie the hook or lure directly.	Clip a ready-made hook leader or suitable lure eye.
I5. Ready-made leaders	Tie a lure directly, or make a loop leader.	For no loop knot, tie a swivel at the leader’s top.
J. Drop shot	Tie the hook; pass the tag down; add the weight.	Clip above the whole rig. All three steps stay.
Knot and trip checks	Inspect and test knots.	Also check the snap’s wire and both hooked catches.

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

A lure with a closed front eye

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie your line or leader to the lure’s front eye with the knot its maker recommends. This guide teaches Double Palomar (C) and Uni knot (G).

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Tie the line to the closed clip’s line end once, using Double Palomar (C) or Uni knot (G). Open the lure end, add the lure’s front eye, then close and test the clip.

Check: The eye fits freely, the snap locks fully, and the hardware is small enough for the lure. Follow the lure maker’s advice.

PICK JUST ONE LESSON

Knots and rigs for later

You do not need all of these to catch your first fish. Open the lesson you need.

Blue = braidOrange = mono or fluoroDark = metal

Line colors help you follow the drawings. Real fishing line may look different.

Choose a knot for your setupGrown-up reference · match the knot to the job

The rig, and which knot goes where

Follow this drawing

Connection	Knot	Section
Line to the reel spool	Arbor knot	A
Braid to the mono or fluoro leader	Double Uni knot	B
Leader to a hook, a snap swivel, or a small lure with a closed eye	Double Palomar knot	C
Leader to a spinnerbait (open R-bend wire)	Improved Clinch knot	D
Rig a stick bait (Senko): wacky or Texas	Hook tied on with the Double Palomar	E
Add a trailer to a spinnerbait; choose a blade	No knot	F
Braid to a swivel ring, or a lure to a loop leader	Uni knot	G
A small loop in the end of a line (loop leader)	Surgeon's loop	H
Quick-change rig: bluegill rig and bass rig on one snap	Uses C, G, and H	I
Drop shot: bait held above the bottom	Knot C, with the tag end passed back through the eye	J

A snap swivel lets you change lures without a new knot. Use it for lures with a closed eye: crankbaits, spoons, in-line spinners. Tie a spinnerbait directly to the leader. A snap can slide on its open wire.

What do these words mean?Line, loop, tag end, eye, and leader

Words used in this guide

Follow this drawing

Standing line: The long part of the line that goes to the reel. You do not cut it.
Tag end: The short free end. You tie the knot with it, and you cut it short at the end.
Wrap: One turn of the tag end around a line.
Loop: An opening made by the line. You push the tag end, or a hook, through it.
Eye: The ring on a hook, a swivel, or a lure.
Doubled line: The line folded back on itself, so two strands lie side by side (knot C).
Leader: A short piece of mono or fluorocarbon line between the main line and the lure.
Mono, fluoro, braid: Types of line. Mono and fluorocarbon are smooth, springy, and often clear. Braid looks like thin thread and stretches very little.

How to follow the drawingsConnected paths · crossings · movement arrows

How to read the diagrams

Follow this drawing

In front (over): the darker strand goes over the paler strand.

Follow this drawing

Behind (under): the line looks paler at the crossing. It stays connected.

Follow this drawing

Doubled line: two strands side by side. The folded end is the loop.

Follow this drawing

Through an eye: the ring is behind on one side and in front on the other.

Follow this drawing

Grey oval: pinch this spot with your thumb and finger.

Follow this drawing

Arrow on the line: the tag end. Move it this way.

Numbered dots mark each crossing. A dashed box shows the part that is drawn larger in the close-up under the diagram. Every drawing has a Watch this diagram button. It opens the matching motion or a tour of the labeled parts. Arrows show the last movement, even when a step is paused. A pale route shows where the line will go. A tight knot may be shown as a simple shape; the line is still connected.

Practice with string and a ringOverhand and double overhand · no sharp hook

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Practice knots stay the same

Tie it on

Follow the line through each loop to learn the knot.

Use your lock snap

A clip cannot replace a loop that is part of a knot. Practice with string and a key ring just as shown.

Check: A line loop used to form a knot is different from the finished loop used to hang a leader on a clip.

Basic skill: the overhand knot

Knot A uses this simple knot. Knot C (Double Palomar) uses the double version in step 4. Learn them in one line first.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Make a circle
Hold the standing line. Bring the tag end around and cross it in front of the standing line. This makes a circle.
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The tag end is in front. The standing line is behind.
2Push the tag end through the circle
Bring the tag end down behind the left side of the circle. Then bring it out in front of the right side. The tag end went through the circle from the back to the front.
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 2The tag end goes behind the left side of the circle.
2. 3The tag end comes out in front of the right side of the circle.
3Pull both ends
Pull the standing line and the tag end apart. The circle closes into a small knot. If you pull and the line comes straight with no knot, the tag end went through the circle in the wrong direction. Try step 2 again.
4Double overhand knot
Make the circle (1). Then wrap the tag end around the left side of the circle: behind (2), in front (3). Go behind once more (4) and out in front of the right side (5). The tag end went through the circle two times. Knot C (Double Palomar) uses this knot with the doubled line.
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The tag end crosses in front of the standing line.
2. 2Behind the left side.
3. 3In front of the left side: one wrap.
4. 4Behind the left side again.
5. 5Out in front of the right side.

Watch it tied: double overhand

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

A. Put line on a reelArbor knot · grown-up setup

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The reel-spool knot stays

Tie it on

Tie line around the spool with the Arbor knot as shown.

Use your lock snap

Do the same Arbor knot. Your clip belongs at the fishing end of the line, never on the spool.

Check: Having a clip does not change reel filling or the Arbor knot.

A. Arbor knot: line to the reel spool

Two simple overhand knots. The first one slides down to the spool when you pull. The second one is a stopper, so the tag end cannot pull through.

Parts of a spinning reel

Follow this drawing

The bail is the wire arm around the front of the spool. Flip it over to open it: then line can come off the spool, and you can tie line to the spool. Flip it back by hand to close it: then the line winds on when you turn the handle.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Line around the spool, two overhand knots
Open the bail of the reel. Pass the line around the spool one time. With the tag end, tie an overhand knot around the standing line (knot 1). Then tie a second overhand knot in the tag end only, about 2.5 cm (1 in) from the first (knot 2). Keep both knots loose.
Close-up: knot 1
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The tag end goes down in front of the standing line.
2. 2It comes up behind the standing line.
3. 3It goes up in front of its own first part (the part that comes from the spool). Between 2 and 3 the tag end came from behind to the front, so it went through the ring it made around the standing line. That is what makes it a knot.
Close-up: knot 2
Knot 2 is a plain overhand knot in the tag end only. Follow the tag end: behind at 4, in front at 5, behind at 6, then in front at 4, behind at 5, in front at 6. It is only a stopper. The exact way you tie it does not matter, as long as it cannot pull through knot 1.
2Wet the knots and pull the line
Wet the knots with clean water. Pull the standing line. Knot 1 slides down and locks against the spool. Knot 2 jams against knot 1. Cut the tag end close to knot 2. Close the bail. Ask an adult to wind the line on with gentle, even tension, following the reel maker's directions.

Tips

Braid can slip on a smooth spool. Ask an adult to follow the reel maker's instructions for a braid-ready spool, mono backing, or suitable tape. Extra wraps alone may still slip.
Fill the spool to about 3 mm (1/8 in) below the lip. If the spool is too full, the line jumps off in loops. If it is too empty, your casts are short.
Follow the reel maker's spooling directions. Stop and check if the line twists or makes loose loops.

B. Join two fishing linesDouble Uni · optional braid and leader setup

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Joining braid and leader

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Use the Double Uni to join the two lines directly.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Attach a leader by its top swivel

If your clip is at the far end of the leader, keep the Double Uni. Nothing changes here.

For a removable leader, use the top-swivel option instead of B at that join. It uses terminal knots and extra metal parts.

Check: A clip alone cannot join two loose lines. Keep all metal outside the rod guides.

B. Double Uni knot: braid to the leader

A useful knot for joining braid to a mono or fluoro leader. One uni knot in the braid, one uni knot in the leader, then pull them together.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Put the two lines side by side
Make an overlap of 15 to 20 cm (6 to 8 in). The two tag ends point in opposite directions.
2Make a loop with the braid tag end
Hold the overlap with one hand. Bring the braid tag end up and back toward the reel side. Cross it in front of both lines. This makes a loop. The loop arm lies above the two lines. Pinch the crossover point against the two lines with your thumb and finger (grey oval). Keep it pinched while you wrap.
Close-up: crossing 1
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The braid tag end passes in front of the braid and in front of the leader, in one move.
3Wrap the braid tag end 6 to 8 times
Wrap the braid tag end around both lines. Make the wraps inside the loop, between the loop arm and the two lines. Wrap toward the closed end of the loop. Hold the wraps with your thumb and finger.
Close-up: the first wraps
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1Crossing 1 from step 2: in front of both lines.
2. 2Behind both lines. The tag end comes up between the loop arm and the two lines.
3. 3In front of both lines again, going down. Every wrap repeats 2 and 3.
Close-up: one wrap, drawn large
At 1 the tag end goes down in front of both lines. At 2 it goes up behind both lines and comes out inside the loop. At 3 it goes down in front again.
4Wet the knot and pull the braid tag end
Wet the wraps with clean water. Pull the braid tag end slowly until the wraps close on the two lines. Do not pull hard yet. The loop disappears into the knot.
5Do the same with the leader tag end, 5 to 6 times
Bring the leader tag end down and back toward the lure side. Cross it in front of both lines to make a loop, and pinch the crossover point (grey oval). Wrap it around both lines, inside the loop, 5 to 6 times. Wet the wraps with clean water. Pull the leader tag end slowly until the wraps close.
Close-up: crossings 4 to 6
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 4The leader tag end crosses in front of the leader and in front of the braid.
2. 5Behind both lines, going down. The tag end comes out between the two lines and the loop arm below.
3. 6In front of both lines, going up. Every wrap repeats 5 and 6.
6Pull the two standing lines
Wet the knot again. Pull the braid and the leader in opposite directions. The two knots slide together and lock. Ask an adult to test it firmly with a safe grip.
7Cut the tag ends
Cut the two tag ends. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in). Pull the knot hard one time to test it before you fish.

Tips

Braid is thin and slippery. Make more wraps with the braid than with the leader.
For very thin braid or lines of very different thickness, follow the line maker's recommended joining knot and wrap count.
Wet the knot before you pull it tight. Water helps reduce friction as the knot tightens.
If the knot slips when you test it, cut it off and tie it again.
This knot is a little thick. Use a leader of 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft). Before casting, check that the joining knot is outside the rod tip if practical.

C. Tie on a hook or ringDouble Palomar variation · two overhand passes

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Same knot, different metal eye

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Follow C to tie the line to the hook, swivel, or suitable lure eye.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Take the lure off first and close the empty clip. Tie C to the clip’s line end; the doubled loop passes over the whole empty clip.

Then clip on a suitable lure eye or the top connection of a ready-made rig.

Check: The knot is centered at the clip’s line end and the clip is fully locked. You still tie C once.

C. Double Palomar knot: leader to a hook, a snap swivel, or a lure

This is the Double Palomar variation: the doubled loop goes through the overhand circle twice. A standard Palomar goes through once and also works with braid. Follow the knot advice on your line package. The steps are the same for a hook, a swivel ring, or a lure eye. The loop must go over the whole object.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Double the line and push the loop through the eye
Fold the line to make a loop about 20 cm (8 in) long. The double wrap uses more line than a standard Palomar. Push the loop through the eye of the hook. Keep the two strands side by side. Do not let them twist.
Close-up: through the eye
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1On the left, the eye ring passes behind the doubled line.
2. 2On the right, the eye ring passes in front of the doubled line. Together, 1 and 2 mean the line goes through the ring.
2Tie a loose DOUBLE overhand knot in the doubled line
Bring the loop up and over to make a circle (3). Then wrap the loop around the left side of the circle (4, 5), go through the circle one more time (6), and bring it out over the right side (7). It is the double overhand knot from the overhand knot section, with two strands. The hook hangs below the loose knot. Keep the knot loose.
Close-up: the circle
Close-up: the two wraps
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 3The loop crosses in front of the line from the reel. This makes the circle.
2. 4The loop goes down behind the left side of the circle.
3. 5It comes back out in front of the left side. That is the first wrap.
4. 6It goes behind the left side again. That is the second wrap.
5. 7It comes out in front of the right side of the circle.
3Open the loop and pass the whole hook through it
Hold the knot loose with one hand. With the other hand, open the loop with two fingers. Put the point of the hook into the loop. Pull the loop over the point, over the bend, and up the shank. The loop is now around the shank: one strand in front of the hook, one strand behind it. Then slide the loop up to the eye.
Close-up: the loop around the hook
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 8The far strand of the loop passes behind the hook shank.
2. 9The near strand of the loop passes in front of the hook shank.
4Slide the loop to the eye, wet the knot, pull both ends
Slide the loop up over the eye until it sits on the two strands above the eye. Wet the knot with clean water. Ask an adult to secure the hook safely. Pull the standing line and the tag end together, slowly. The double knot closes down onto the loop and the eye. Then ask an adult to test it firmly with a safe grip.
Close-up: knot, loop, eye
Before the final pull: the double knot is on top, the loop sits around both strands under it, and the eye is below. When you pull, the knot closes down onto the loop, and both lock against the eye.
5Cut the tag end
Cut the tag end. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in). Ask an adult to test the knot firmly with the hook point facing away from people.

Same knot on a snap swivel

Follow this drawing

Tie the Double Palomar knot to the top ring of the swivel. The loop goes over the swivel and the snap. The swivel turns and helps reduce twist from spinning lures. The snap holds the lure.

To change a lure: keep the line end closed. Gently squeeze the spring wire, unhook the lure-end tip, and swing it out. Slide on the new lure eye, then seat the tip fully in its hooked catch. Pull the lure to test the snap.

Tips

Keep the two strands side by side at every step. Twisted strands make a weak knot.
This variation can be used with braid, mono, or fluorocarbon when recommended for that line. Test the finished knot.
Ask an adult to tighten and test the knot with a safe grip. Keep the hook point away from hands.
Make the loop about 20 cm (8 in) long. The double wrap uses more line, and the whole hook must pass through the loop.
This knot also works for braid, a swivel, and a snap. For a lure, the whole lure must pass through the loop.
Use the smallest snap swivel that is strong enough for your line. Sizes vary by brand: check the strength rating and use a smooth, fully closed snap. A big snap changes how a small lure swims.
If the knot does not slide smoothly, cut it off and tie it again.

D. Tie on a spinnerbaitImproved Clinch · mono or fluoro leader

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The open R-bend spinnerbait

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie the leader directly in the R-bend with D.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Tie D between the spinnerbait and its own leader. Tie a barrel swivel to that leader’s top and clip into the free eye.

For the open R-bend shown here, keep the clip off the spinnerbait wire: it can slide along the arm.

Check: A spinnerbait with a manufacturer-approved closed line-tie eye is a different design; follow its maker’s instructions.

D. Improved Clinch knot: leader to a spinnerbait

For the Berkley Power Blade and other spinnerbaits with an open R-bend wire. This knot closes tight on the wire and does not need a loop passed over the bait.

Where the line goes

Follow this drawing

The line tie is the bottom of the R-bend. There is no closed eye. The knot must sit in the bottom of the bend. For a clip-on version, clip above a pre-tied leader, as shown in the comparison. If the knot slides up the wire, the bait runs crooked and the blades stop. Check the knot after each snag.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Put the line around the R-bend
Put the tag end of the leader into the R-bend, around the wire at the bottom of the bend. Pull about 15 cm (6 in) of line through. Bring the tag end back next to the standing line.
Close-up: around the bend
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The line from the reel goes behind the wire at the bottom of the bend.
2. 2The tag end comes back out in front of the upper wire of the bend. The line now holds the bottom of the bend like a hook eye.
2Wrap the tag end 5 times around the standing line
Wrap the tag end around the standing line 5 times. Move away from the bait with each wrap. A small loop stays open next to the bend. Pinch the line at the bend with your thumb and finger (grey oval) so the small loop does not close. Easy way: pinch the tag end against the standing line at the bend, then turn the bait around 5 times. The tag end twists around the standing line for you.
Close-up: small loop and first wrap
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 3First wrap: the tag end goes down in front of the standing line.
2. 4The tag end goes up behind the standing line. Every wrap repeats 3 and 4.
Close-up: one wrap, drawn large
3Put the tag end down through the small loop
Pinch the wraps (grey oval) so they stay in place. Bring the tag end back over the top of the wraps to the bend. Push it down through the small loop, between the bend and the first wrap: in front of its own first part, then behind the standing line. The tag end is now behind the knot. The long loop over the wraps is the big loop.
Close-up: through the small loop
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 5The tag end goes down in front of its own first part (the part that comes from the bend).
2. 6It goes on down behind the standing line. So it went into the small loop from the front and came out at the back. It is now behind the knot.
4Put the tag end through the big loop
Bring the tag end around behind the standing line. Push it up through the big loop, from behind to the front. Do not pull anything tight yet.
Close-up: through the big loop
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 7The tag end goes up behind the standing line.
2. 8It goes left, behind the turn where the tag came up out of the last wrap.
3. 9It goes up and out in front of the top strand of the big loop. The tag end is now in front of the knot.
5Wet the knot, hold the tag end, pull the standing line
Wet the knot with clean water. Hold the tag end with one hand so it does not pull out. Pull the standing line slowly. The wraps slide down and close in the bottom of the bend. Then ask an adult to test it firmly with a safe grip.
6Cut the tag end
Cut the tag end. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in). The wraps must be neat and side by side, in the bottom of the bend. If they cross over each other, cut the knot off and tie it again.

Tips

Use 5 wraps for 10 to 15 lb leader. Use 6 or 7 wraps for a thinner leader.
Hold the bait by the head or the arm when you pull the knot tight. Do not hold the blades.
If the knot keeps sliding up the wire, ask an adult to check the knot and use a keeper made for that spinnerbait, following its maker's instructions.
Test the knot with a hard pull before you cast. After a snag, look at the knot and the wire again.
The Double Palomar knot also works on a spinnerbait. The loop must go over the whole bait, blades and skirt included. That is harder, so the Improved Clinch is the easier choice here.

G. Tie a Uni knotUseful for the simple first rig · adult ties the hook

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Uni works on a clip or swivel, too

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie G to a hook, swivel, or suitable lure eye. Use the wrap count for your line.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Tie G to the line end of the closed snap. Or tie G between a ready-made leader and its top barrel swivel.

Check: A clip changes which metal eye receives the knot. It does not remove the Uni knot.

G. Uni knot: line to a swivel ring or a lure

Use it to tie braid to a swivel (8 turns) and to tie a lure to a loop leader (6 turns with mono or fluorocarbon). It is one half of the Double Uni.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Through the ring
Push the end of the line through the ring. Pull about 20 cm (8 in) through. This short end is the tag end. Lay it back next to the line.
Close-up: through the ring
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1On the right, the ring is in front of the line.
2. 2On the left, the ring is behind the line. So the line goes through the ring.
2Make a loop
Bend the tag end back to make a loop over both lines. It crosses in front of both lines (3). Pinch the crossover (grey oval).
3Wrap 8 times
Wrap the tag end around both lines, inside the loop, 8 times. Move away from the ring. Each wrap goes up behind both lines and down in front. Use 8 wraps for braid and 6 for mono or fluorocarbon.
Close-up: the crossover and the first wrap
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 3The tag end crosses in front of both lines.
2. 4Up behind both lines, inside the loop.
3. 5Down in front of both lines. That is one wrap.
4Pull the tag end
Wet the knot with clean water. Pull the tag end. The wraps close into a small barrel.
5Slide it down and cut
Pull the line from the reel. The knot slides down to the ring. Ask an adult to test the knot firmly and trim the tag end. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in).

H. Make a loop at the endSurgeon’s loop · optional clip-on leaders

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Keep the loop—or choose a swivel

Tie it on

Follow H to make a small finished loop in the leader. The finished loop can hang inside a snap.

Use your lock snap

Open the clip and add the finished loop.

No-loop choice: skip H and tie a small barrel swivel to the top of the leader with C or G. Clip the other eye.

Check: Do not pinch bare line in the snap. Either the tied loop or a tied-on metal eye supplies the connection.

H. Surgeon's loop: a small loop in the end of a line

A double overhand knot tied with the doubled line. It makes a loop that clips into a snap. It is the same knot as step 2 of the Double Palomar, but with no hook in it.

Watch it tied

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Fold the end back
Fold the end of the line back to make a doubled section about 15 cm (6 in) long. The fold becomes the loop.
2Double overhand with the doubled line
Hold the two lines together as one thick line. Make a circle (1). Pass the fold through the circle two times (2 to 4) and out the right side (5). Keep it loose.
Close-up: two times through
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The fold crosses in front of the two lines. This makes the circle.
2. 2Behind the left side.
3. 3In front of the left side: once through.
4. 4Behind the left side again: twice through.
5. 5Out in front of the right side.
3Pull tight
Wet the knot. Hold the fold in one hand and both lines in the other hand. Pull. Before it is tight, slide the knot so the loop is about 2.5 cm (1 in) long.
4Cut the tag end
Cut the tag end. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in). Pull the loop hard one time to test it.

Tips

Keep the loop small, about 2.5 cm (1 in). A large loop can catch on the hooks when you cast.
Use a smooth snap and close it fully. Check the loop for wear; a rough or damaged snap can damage line.

E. Rig a soft plastic wormWacky and Texas rigs · learn later

E. Stick bait: Yamamoto Senko

A stick bait is a soft plastic worm with no tail. The Senko sinks slowly and wiggles as it falls, and most bites come while it sinks. You need no weight. Tie the hook on with knot C (Double Palomar), then rig the bait one of two ways.

Pick a rig and a hook

Rig	Good for	Hook	4 in Senko	5 in Senko
Wacky	Simple to rig. Open water and docks.	Wacky or octopus hook (straight, short)	about #1	1/0
Texas, no weight	Weeds and wood: helps reduce snags.	Offset worm hook, wide gap (EWG)	about 2/0	3/0

A 4 in Senko is a manageable starting size. Match its weight to the lure rating printed on your rod. Hook sizes are starting points; brands and bait thickness vary.

Follow this drawing

Words for the parts of a hook. The offset bend is the small step near the eye. It holds the nose of the bait in place.

E1. Wacky rig

The hook goes through the middle of the bait. An O-ring makes the bait last much longer.

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The wacky hook stays tied

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie the hook eye to your line. Rig the worm under the O-ring as shown.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Tie the hook to its own short leader. Clip into a swivel at the leader’s top. Rig the worm exactly the same way.

Check: The worm’s O-ring holds the bait; it is not the clip connection. This version keeps the clip away from the hook.

Watch it rigged

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Roll an O-ring to the middle
Stretch an O-ring over the tail end of the bait. Roll it to the middle.
2Slide the hook under the O-ring
Lay the hook on top of the bait. Slide the point under the O-ring, along the bait. The hook point stays out in the open.
Close-up: the O-ring
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The O-ring is in front of the hook. The hook is between the O-ring and the bait.
3How it hangs
The bait hangs from its middle. Both ends wiggle as it sinks. That slow wiggle is what fish bite.
No O-ring?
Watch the steps
Push the point straight through the middle of the bait, in one side and out the other. It works, but the bait tears sooner.

Tips

Hookset: reel up the slack, then sweep the rod up with steady pressure. Do not jerk hard. A hard jerk often pulls the bait away from the fish.
If the O-ring slides, roll it back to the middle before the next cast.

E2. Texas rig, no weight

The point is tucked into the bait to help it slip past weeds and wood. It can still snag.

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The Texas hook stays tied

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie the worm-hook eye to the line. Rig and skin-tuck the plastic as shown.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Keep that hook knot on a ready-made leader. Clip into its top swivel. The plastic and hook steps below stay the same.

Check: A small snap can fit some hook eyes, but a snap next to this plastic adds bulk and can collect weeds. The leader version is the choice taught here.

Watch it rigged

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Measure
Hold the hook under the bait with the eye at the nose. Look where the hook point lines up with the bait. Mark that spot with your fingernail. The point goes in there in step 5.
2Point into the nose and out the belly
Push the point into the center of the nose, about 6 mm (1/4 in). Then turn the point down and push it out of the belly.
Close-up: the nose
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1In at the center of the nose.
2. 2Out of the belly, about 6 mm (1/4 in) behind the nose.
3Pull the hook through
Pull the hook through the bait. Slide the nose up the hook until it covers the offset bend and touches the eye. The point faces away from the bait for now.
Close-up: the nose on the hook
4Turn the hook around
Turn the hook around one half turn, so the point faces the bait.
5Push the point through the bait
Bend the bait a little. Push the point straight into the belly at your mark, through the bait, and out of the back. Then let the bait straighten.
Close-up: through the bait
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 3The point goes in at the belly, at your mark.
2. 4The point comes out of the back. The hook bend stays below the bait. Keep the plastic straight.
6Tuck the point under the skin
Push the tip of the point back into the skin of the back, just under the surface. This helps reduce snags. When a fish bites, the point goes through the thin skin.
Close-up: the tip

Check the Texas rig

Tips

Hookset: when you feel a tap or see the line move, reel up the slack and pull the rod up firmly. The point must go through the plastic and into the fish.
How to fish it: cast near weeds, docks, or wood. Let it sink on a loose line and watch the line. Then lift the rod tip and let it sink again.
If one end of the bait tears, you can rig the other end.

F. Add a spinnerbait trailerSoft plastic trailer and blade choices · learn later

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

The spinnerbait extras stay the same

Tie it on

Add the soft plastic trailer to the main hook. An adult fits any optional trailer hook. Choose blades as described.

Use your lock snap

Do those same steps. Your lock snap attaches to the top swivel of the spinnerbait’s leader, as in D’s comparison.

Check: A line clip does not attach the soft plastic, replace a trailer-hook keeper, or change the blade choice.

F. Spinnerbait: trailer and blades

Your Berkley Power Blade is ready to fish as it comes. You can add a soft plastic trailer for more size and action. Tie the bait on with knot D.

Parts of the spinnerbait

Follow this drawing

The bait keeper is a small cone on the hook, under the skirt. It holds a trailer in place.

F1. Add a trailer

Use a soft plastic 6 to 9 cm (2.5 to 3.5 in) long: a curly-tail grub, a small paddle-tail swimbait, or a craw.

Watch it rigged

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Point into the nose
Hold the trailer with its nose at the hook point. Push the point into the center of the nose.
Close-up: the nose
2Around the bend and up the shank
Push the trailer along the point, around the bend, and up the shank. Stop when the nose covers the bait keeper.
3Point out the back
Push the point out through the top (back) of the trailer. The hook point must stay exposed: the wire arm helps deflect some cover, but the hook can still snag.
Close-up: the point

Check the trailer

F2. Trailer hook (optional)

For later, with an adult: a second hook can catch some fish that strike behind the main hook. It also adds another sharp point.

Watch the steps

Ask an adult to fit the trailer hook as its maker directs, with its point up. Push a small rubber stopper onto the main point to hold it. Do not use a trailer hook in thick weeds or wood: it snags.

F3. Blades

The blade spins and flashes. The example shown has one gold Colorado blade. Check your lure: models differ. Other baits use other shapes and colors.

Follow this drawing

Blade	Use it when
Colorado (round)	You reel slowly, the water is murky, or it is dark or cloudy. You feel a strong thump.
Willow (long)	You reel fast, the water is clear, or you fish over and through weeds. It flashes more and thumps less.
Gold	Stained or murky water, cloudy days.
Silver	Clear water, sunny days.

These are starting rules, not laws. If fish do not bite, try a different blade.

Tips

How to fish it: cast past a target, let the bait sink for a moment, then reel steadily. Reel just fast enough that you feel the blade thump through the rod.
Bump it into wood, rocks, and dock posts. The wire arm helps deflect cover, but the hook can still snag. A change in movement may attract a fish.
If you stop feeling the thump, a fish may have the bait. Reel and sweep the rod up.
If the blade stops spinning, check that the arm is not bent and that weeds are not caught on the blade.

I. Try the clip-on setupOptional snap, swivel, and pre-tied hooks

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Switch a hook rig or a suitable lure

Tie it on

Tie the hook or lure to the line. Retie that terminal knot when you change it.

Use your lock snap

For bluegill, clip a ready-made hook leader by its loop or tied-on top swivel. For a suitable closed-eye lure, clip the lure’s front eye.

Open, remove, add, close, and have your grown-up test the connection. The animations here show the loop version.

Check: Bobber depth and shot distance are measured from the hook. A plain snap does not swivel; an in-line spinner may still need a small upstream swivel.

I. One snap, two rigs: the quick-change rig

Tie this at home. At the water, you change between a bluegill rig and a bass lure in seconds, with no knots. Only the uni knot is tied at the water, and only if a snag breaks the leader.

The parts

Follow this drawing

Part	Size	Why
Barrel swivel	Small barrel swivel; check its strength rating	Joins the braid to the leader. The leader can turn without twisting the braid.
Fluorocarbon leader	6 or 8 lb test, 1 to 1.2 m (3 to 4 ft) for each leader	A clear leader can be less visible. A weaker leader may break first, but a snag can break any part of the setup.
Lock snap, no swivel	Small lock snap; check the package’s strength rating	A hook leader’s loop or top swivel, or a suitable lure eye, clips into it.
Snelled hooks with a loop	Long-shank Aberdeen, size 8	The hook comes with a short line (the snell) tied on. Its loop clips into the snap. The long hook is easy to take out of a small mouth.
Removable split shot	Size BB, the type with two tabs	Pinch it on. Squeeze the tabs to take it off.
Spring-clip bobber	2 to 2.5 cm (3/4 to 1 in)	A small bobber goes under easily when a fish bites.

Size numbers vary by brand. In ordinary hook sizes, #8 is smaller than #6; in /0 sizes, 3/0 is larger than 1/0. Check hardware strength ratings on the package.

I1. Set up the line at home

Three knots hold the setup.

Watch the steps

Pull 1.2 m (4 ft) of fluorocarbon off the spool. Do not cut it yet. Tie the end to one ring of the swivel with knot C (Double Palomar).
Measure 1 to 1.2 m (3 to 4 ft) from the swivel. Cut the fluorocarbon there.
Close the snap. Tie it to the cut end with knot C.
Ask an adult to grip the hardware safely and test the connection. Both knots must hold. This is one leader.
Make 2 or 3 more leaders the same way. Put them in a zip bag.
Tie the braid to the empty ring of the swivel with knot G (uni knot), 8 turns.
Ask an adult to grip the braid safely and test the connection. The uni knot must hold.

Why this order? In the Double Palomar, the loop must pass over the whole swivel. Tying the loose swivel first avoids having to pass the rod and reel through the loop.

I2. The clip-on parts

Snap

Keep the line end closed. Squeeze gently to unhook the lure-end wire tip, then swing it out. Slide the hook leader’s loop or lure eye onto that wire. Seat the tip fully in its hooked catch. Check both catches and have your grown-up test safely.

Spring bobber

Split shot

Watch the steps

I3. Bluegill rig

Need help adding the real worm? Follow the four worm-baiting steps.

Watch it rigged

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

Open the snap. Hang the loop of a snelled hook on the wire.
Close the snap. Ask an adult to pull safely to check the connection. The snap must stay closed.
Ask an adult to pinch one small split shot on the snell (the short line of the hook), about 15 cm (6 in) above the hook.
Push the bobber button. Clip the bobber on the leader, 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft) above the hook.
Put a small piece of worm on the hook, about 1–2.5 cm (½–1 in). Leave the hook tip just showing. Ask an adult to bait the hook.
Look at the bobber in the water. The bobber must support the bait and shot, with its top easy to see. Add only a tiny shot if needed; stop before the bobber sinks.
Watch the bobber. When it goes under or moves steadily away, reel up the loose line and lift the rod gently. It may be a bite.

I4. Change rigs

Watch the swap

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

Bass rig

Bluegill to bass

Push the bobber button. Take off the bobber.
Open the snap. Take off the snelled hook. Keep the split shot on it.
Put the eye of the lure (the small ring at its front) on the wire. If the lure is on a loop leader, put the loop on the wire.
Close the snap. Ask an adult to test the connection safely. The snap must stay closed.

Bass to bluegill

Open the snap. Take off the lure.
Hang a snelled hook on the wire. Close the snap. Pull to check.
Clip the bobber on the leader, 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft) above the hook.
Put a small piece of worm on the hook.

Before each cast, check that the snap is closed. An open snap can throw the lure or the hook.

I5. Ready-made leaders: loop or swivel

A short leader with a lure tied on one end and a small loop in the other end. Make one for each lure at home. Then you change lures at the water with no knot.

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

A ready-made leader without a loop knot

Tie it on

Follow the loop-leader steps below, using H at the top and G at the lure.

Use your lock snap

First tie the leader to one eye of a small barrel swivel with C or G.
Cut the leader to the needed length and tie on the hook or lure.
Put the empty swivel eye in the lure end of your rod-side lock snap, then lock it.

Check: No Surgeon’s loop is needed in the swivel version. The hook/lure knot and the swivel knot are both still needed.

Watch the steps

Pull about 60 cm (2 ft) of fluorocarbon off the spool. Do not cut it yet.
Tie a surgeon's loop (knot H) in the end. Make the loop about 2.5 cm (1 in) long.
Measure 30 to 45 cm (12 to 18 in) from the loop. Cut the line.
Tie the lure or hook to the cut end with a uni knot (knot G), 6 turns.
Ask an adult to secure the lure safely and test both knots. Both knots must hold.
Put the leader in a zip bag. Write the lure name on the bag.

The uni knot is convenient for the lure here: the Double Palomar loop must go over the whole lure, and the hooks catch in it. A Texas-rigged Senko (section E) also goes on a loop leader.

I6. Lures, bites, and letting fish go

Lures that clip on

Beetle Spin, 1/16 oz: a small rubber body with a spinning blade. Bluegill and bass both bite it. Reel it slowly and smoothly.
Inline spinner, 1/16 to 1/8 oz (Rooster Tail, or Mepps size 0 or 1): a blade spins around a straight wire. The swivel above the leader helps reduce line twist.
Small crankbait, 4 to 5 cm (1.5 to 2 in): a hard lure with a lip that makes it dive and wiggle. The snap lets it wiggle more.
Ned rig: a 1/10 oz mushroom-style jig head with a 6 to 8 cm (2.5 to 3 in) soft plastic. Let it sink, lift it, and let it drop slowly.

Keep the bites coming

Use small, smooth hardware with enough strength. Large hardware can affect how a small bait moves.
Do not add a snap swivel at the bait. The swivel at the top of the leader is enough.
Use the smallest bobber that holds up the bait and the shot.
Use a small hook and a small piece of bait for bluegill. Their mouths are small.
Clip the snap to the eye at the front of the lure, not to a hook hanger.
After a snag or a fish, pull the leader through your fingers. If it feels rough, change the leader.

Let the fish go

Wet your hands before you hold a fish.
Ask an adult to support a bluegill gently. Its fins have sharp spines. Do not squeeze its body.
Ask an adult to support a bass horizontally, with one hand under its belly. Keep fingers away from its gills and eyes.
If a hook is deep, stop and ask an adult. Do not dig for it. The adult can cut the line close to the mouth to avoid more injury. Return the fish to the water promptly.

J. Try a drop shotA weight below the hook · learn later

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Drop shot: the clip goes above the whole rig

Tie it on

Follow this drawing

Tie the hook into your line or leader with a long tag. Pass the tag down through the eye and put the weight below the hook.

Use your lock snap

Follow this drawing

Make that same hook-and-weight rig on a separate leader. Tie a small barrel swivel at its top and put the free eye in your lock snap’s larger lure loop.

The hook knot, tag-through-eye step, and weight below all stay. Do not hang the ordinary drop-shot hook itself from the rod-side clip.

Check: The hook is tied between the top connection and the bottom weight. Only the whole rig’s top connection changes.

No-loop drop shot: make the whole leader at home

Tie on the top swivel first. Tie one end of a separate mono or fluoro leader to one eye of a small barrel swivel, using the Double Palomar (C) or Uni knot (G).
Tie the hook below it. Use the hook-knot lesson below and leave enough tag for the weight. Keep a useful length of leader above the hook. Your grown-up chooses the total length for your rod and casting space.
Pass the tag down through the hook eye. Check that the hook point faces up.
Add the drop-shot weight below the hook. Start about 12–18 in (30–45 cm) below. Put the line in that weight’s own gripping slot.
Clip on the whole rig. Open your rod-side lock snap, add the swivel’s empty eye, close it fully, and have your grown-up test all connections.

Two different jobs: the lock snap at the top changes the whole rig. The weight’s small line-gripping slot at the bottom holds the weight.

The animation below teaches the hook, tag, bait, and weight steps for both versions. The new diagram shows the extra top connection. Specialized swivel-mounted drop-shot hooks have their own instructions; this guide uses an ordinary drop-shot hook.

J. Drop shot: bait held above the bottom

The hook is tied in the line, with a long tag end below it. A weight on the end of the tag end holds the line on the bottom. The bait hangs above the bottom, where fish see it. Use it for bass in deep or clear water and next to docks.

The rig

Part	Size
Drop shot hook	Size 1 or 2
Drop shot weight with a line clip	3.5 to 7 g (1/8 to 1/4 oz). Use the lightest weight that you can feel on the bottom.
Bait	A thin soft plastic worm or minnow, 7 to 10 cm (3 to 4 in)
Line	Fluorocarbon, 6 to 8 lb test

Watch it rigged

Choose a step, then tap Watch step. It pauses so you can copy it. Show whole view helps you find your place. Practice on string and a ring; an adult handles hooks.

1Tie the hook on with a long tag end
Hold the hook with the point up. Fold the end of the line in half, 45 to 60 cm (18 to 24 in) from the end. Push the loop through the eye from the point side. Tie knot C (Double Palomar) as usual. Do not cut the tag end: the weight goes on it.
2Pass the tag end down through the eye
Push the tag end into the eye from the top (the point side) and pull it out at the bottom. Pull it tight. The hook now stands straight out from the line, with the point up. Check the result: the point should face up. If it does not, ask an adult to check the knot and threading.
Close-up: the eye
Look closer: follow each crossing
1. 1The tag end goes into the eye from the top. The ring is behind the line here.
2. 2It comes out at the bottom. The ring is in front of the line here. So the tag end went through the eye.
3Put line in the weight’s slot
Measure 30 to 45 cm (12 to 18 in) down the tag end from the hook. Pull the line down into the slot of the weight's clip there. It pinches the line. Leave about 5 cm (2 in) below the clip, and cut off the rest. To fish higher or lower, pull the line out of the slot, slide the weight, and pinch it again.
4Hook the bait through the nose
Push the hook point in at the bottom of the bait's nose, about 3 mm (1/8 in) from the end. Bring it out at the top. Only the nose of the bait is on the hook. The rest is free to move; its angle depends on the bait and hook.

Check the hook

How to fish it

Cast it out, or drop it straight down next to a dock. Let the weight sink to the bottom.
Keep the line tight, but do not drag the weight. Shake the rod tip gently: the bait moves, and the weight stays still.
Wait. A bite can come while the bait rests. When you feel a tap or the line feels heavy, reel and sweep the rod up. Do not jerk hard.
If the weight snags, pull steadily. The weight often slides off the clip, and you keep the hook and the bait.
For the quick-change version, use a top swivel or a tied loop above the whole drop-shot leader. See the drop-shot comparison. Adjust the total hanging length with your grown-up; do not simply add another long leader to an already long setup.

Check your finished knotCompare the drawings before fishing

TWO WAYS TO CONNECT IT

Check the knots and the clip

Tie it on

Check for damage and compare each knot with its lesson. Ask an adult to test it safely.

Use your lock snap

Do those same knot checks. Also inspect the snap for bent wire, rough spots, and an incomplete closure. Check any line loop for wear.

Check: A clip does not remove the need to inspect and retest knots.

Check your knot

Look at every knot before you fish. If it looks like the right-hand picture, fix it or tie it again.

Wraps (knots B and D)

Double Palomar (knot C)

Spinnerbait (knot D)

If the knot keeps sliding, ask an adult to check it and follow the spinnerbait maker's advice about a line-tie keeper.

Grown-up checks and fishing basicsLine care · hook safety · knot testing

Basics for a beginner

Short rules that keep the line strong and the day simple.

Line and leader

For a simple first panfish trip, use mono that matches the rod and reel, often 6 to 8 lb test. Braid with a leader is an optional setup to learn later.
Make the leader 60 to 90 cm (2 to 3 ft) long. Before casting, check that the joining knot is outside the rod tip if practical.
After each fish and each snag, run the leader between your fingers. If you feel a rough spot or a nick, cut the leader there and tie the lure on again.
Tie a new lure knot at the start of each trip, and after a big fish.

Every knot

Wet the knot before you pull it tight. Water helps reduce friction as the knot tightens.
Pull slowly to close the knot. Then pull hard one time to test it. An adult should test it with a safe grip and the hook pointed away. A test helps find a bad knot, but does not guarantee it will hold.
Cut tag ends with clippers or scissors. Leave about 3 mm (1/8 in). Do not bite the line.
If a knot looks wrong, with wraps that cross each other, cut it off and tie it again. It takes one minute. A bad knot loses the fish.

Hooks and safety

Practice with a key ring. An adult handles real hooks and keeps the points away from hands.
Ask an adult to flatten the hook barb with pliers. A barbless hook is easier to remove from a fish. If a hook gets into a person, stop and get adult help; do not yank it out.
Before each cast, look behind and beside you. Say "casting" out loud.
Keep pliers, clippers, and a small first aid kit in the tackle box.

For your grown-up: sources

Reviewed October 25, 2026. These explain the knot methods, fish care, and safety advice. Check local fishing rules, bait rules, and license requirements before your trip.

First, team up with a grown-up

Start with a bobber and a worm

Let your grown-up get the rod ready.

Let your grown-up tie on the hook.

Add a tiny weight and a bobber.

Add a small piece of worm.

Get ready to watch the bobber!

The bobber-and-worm rig

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

Put a worm on a bluegill hook

Watch the worm go on

1Start with a small piece.

2Poke through near one end.

3Slide, fold, and poke again.

4Check the finished hook.

Before your first cast

Cast, wait, and watch

Practice without a hook first.

Hold the line. Open the bail.

Swing gently. Let the line go.

Close the bail. Watch the bobber.

Keep your clip. Change the lure or the whole rig.

Change a rig with your lock snap

Want to skip the loop knot?

A lure with a closed front eye

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

Knots and rigs for later

The rig, and which knot goes where

Words used in this guide

How to read the diagrams

Practice knots stay the same

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

Basic skill: the overhand knot

Watch it tied

1Make a circle

2Push the tag end through the circle

3Pull both ends

4Double overhand knot

Watch it tied: double overhand

The reel-spool knot stays

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

A. Arbor knot: line to the reel spool

Parts of a spinning reel

Watch it tied

1Line around the spool, two overhand knots

2Wet the knots and pull the line

Tips

Joining braid and leader

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

B. Double Uni knot: braid to the leader

Watch it tied

1Put the two lines side by side

2Make a loop with the braid tag end

3Wrap the braid tag end 6 to 8 times

4Wet the knot and pull the braid tag end

5Do the same with the leader tag end, 5 to 6 times

6Pull the two standing lines

7Cut the tag ends

Tips

Same knot, different metal eye

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

C. Double Palomar knot: leader to a hook, a snap swivel, or a lure

Watch it tied

1Double the line and push the loop through the eye

2Tie a loose DOUBLE overhand knot in the doubled line

3Open the loop and pass the whole hook through it

4Slide the loop to the eye, wet the knot, pull both ends

5Cut the tag end

Same knot on a snap swivel

Tips

The open R-bend spinnerbait

Tie it on

Use your lock snap

D. Improved Clinch knot: leader to a spinnerbait